Issues and Challenges in Sun Protection – UV Filters and SPF Boosters 

Issues of UV-Filters in Cosmetics Products 

Solar exposure has multiple advantages, such as vitamin D synthesis and enhanced mental health [1–3]. However, excessive exposure without protection can result in dermatological conditions like sunburn, photoaging, and potentially, carcinogenesis [2]. 

Recently, the safety of multiple organic UV filters [4-6] has been questioned. Investigations have uncovered alterations in human reproductive anatomy and detrimental ecological and health effects [7-12]. Inorganic filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) by the FDA [13]. Nevertheless, these mineral-based filters present formulation challenges, potential aesthetic drawbacks in non-nanoparticulate forms, and ecological concerns at the nanoscale, particularly impacting marine ecosystems [14]. 

Innovation in this domain remains difficult due to high regulatory barriers as shown by the FDA’s approval of merely three new filters since 1978 [15]. Therefore, to mitigate the limitations of UV filters, SPF boosters are employed to increase UV filter efficiency, enabling a reduction in their concentration while maintaining or boosting SPF values.  

Synthetic and Bio-Based SPF Boosters 

The first SPF Boosters were developed for film formation and stabilizing UV filters, thereby increasing SPF efficacy [15]. Current trends favor SPF boosters from natural sources [16] such as grape seed extract, jasmine, hibiscus, desert rose, propolis, aloe vera, yellow milfoil, and vetty fruit [6, 17]. However, the production of bio-based SPF boosters often necessitates extensive cultivation and energy-intensive extraction methods, adversely affecting sustainability and cost-effectiveness [18]. For a bio-based cosmetic ingredient to be genuinely sustainable, it should be abundantly available and exhibit properties highly relevant to the cosmetics sector. One such promising natural SPF booster is lignin. 

Lignin – A Multifunctional SPF Boosting 

Derived from the Latin term “lignum” meaning “wood,” Lignin is a highly diverse polyphenol [20] and a key structural component of terrestrial plants and algae. Lignin, the second most prevalent renewable biopolymer, is found in wood and woody plants and makes up 18-35% of plant biomass [20]. Lignin functions as a UV shield, a free radical scavenger, and reinforces secondary cell walls in plants. 

Lignovations’ patented Colloidal Technology makes the natural protective properties of lignin accessible for cosmetic products: boosting SPF, providing antioxidant protection, and improving emulsion stability.    

           
 

LignoGuard® SPF Booster – Natural Solution 

LignoGuard®, an SPF Booster derived from lignin, provides a strong SPF boost when combined with organic or mineral UV filters in sunscreens. In-vitro and in-vivo SPF tests have proven its efficacy in improving photo protection across the UV-A and UV-B spectrums. 

Independent in-vivo SPF tests have confirmed that LignoGuard® significantly boosts the SPF of sun care formulations by up to 50% or 22 SPF points. Invitro tests have shown even higher boosting efficacy but are omitted due to their lower reliability. 

LignoGuard® is developed and manufactured with a focus on scientifically proven efficacy (in-vivo SPF studies), sustainability (COSMOS, NaTrue), and consistent quality (Cosmetic-GMP ISO 22716). It can be used in a wide range of products such as skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, and anti-aging to improve performance and replace synthetic ingredients. 

Want to learn more about LignoGuard®? Contact us!

References 

1. Jesus, A., Sousa, E., Cruz, M.T., Cidade, H., Lobo, J.M.S., Almeida, I.F.: UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects. Pharmaceuticals (Basel, Switzerland) 15(3) (2022). doi: 10.3390/ph15030263 

2. John D’Orazio, Stuart Jarrett, Alexandra Amaro-Ortiz and Timothy Scott: UV Radiation and the Skin 

3. Tian, X.Q., Chen, T.C., Matsuoka, L.Y., Wortsman, J., Holick, M.F.: Kinetic and thermodynamic studies of the conversion of previtamin D3 to vitamin D3 in human skin. Journal of Biological Chemistry 268(20), 14888–14892 (1993). doi: 10.1016/S0021-9258(18)82416-4 

4. Yangmyung, M., Jinah, Y.: History of sunscreen: An updated view. Journal of cosmetic dermatology(20(4)), 1044–1049 (2021) 

5. Sabzevari, N., Qiblawi, S., Norton, S.A., Fivenson, D.: Sunscreens: UV filters to protect us: Part 1: Changing regulations and choices for optimal sun protection. International journal of women’s dermatology 7(1), 28–44 (2021). doi: 10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.05.017 

6. Shaath, N.: Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development. Third Edition. Taylor & Francis Group (2005) 

7. Downs, C.A., Kramarsky-Winter, E., Segal, R., Fauth, J., Knutson, S., Bronstein, O., Ciner, F.R., Jeger, R., Lichtenfeld, Y., Woodley, C.M., Pennington, P., Cadenas, K., Kushmaro, A., Loya, Y.: Toxicopathological Effects of the Sunscreen UV Filter, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3), on Coral Planulae and Cultured Primary Cells and Its Environmental Contamination in Hawaii and the U.S. Virgin Islands. Archives of environmental contamination and toxicology 70(2), 265–288 (2016). doi: 10.1007/s00244-015-0227-7 

8. Brown, J.: Sunscreen: What science says about ingredient safety (2019) 

9. Rehfeld, A., Egeberg, D.L., Almstrup, K., Petersen, J.H., Dissing, S., Skakkebaek, N.E.: EDC IMPACT: Chemical UV filters can affect human sperm function in a progesterone-like manner. Endocrine Connections(7), 16–25 (2018) 

10. Japhet Cheuk-Fung Law, Yanran Huang, Chi-Hang Chow, Tsz-Ki Lam, Kelvin Sze-Yin Leung: Comparative physicochemical properties and toxicity of organic UV filters and their photocatalytic transformation products 

11. Huang, Y., Law, J.C.-F., Lam, T.-K., Leung, K.S.-Y.: Risks of organic UV filters: a review of environmental and human health concern studies. The Science of the total environment 755(Pt 1), 142486 (2021). doi: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2020.142486 

12. Downs, C.A., DiNardo, J.C., Stien, D., Rodrigues, A.M.S., Lebaron, P.: Benzophenone Accumulates over Time from the Degradation of Octocrylene in Commercial Sunscreen Products. Chemical research in toxicology 34(4), 1046–1054 (2021). doi: 10.1021/acs.chemrestox.0c00461 

13. U.S. Food and Drug Administration: FDA advances new proposed regulation to make sure that sunscreens are safe and effective (2019) 

14. Khan, G.B., Akhtar, N., Khan, M.F., Ullah, Z., Tabassum, S., Tedesse, Z.: Toxicological impact of Zinc Nano Particles on tilapia fish (Oreochromis mossambicus). Saudi journal of biological sciences 29(2), 1221–1226 (2022). doi: 10.1016/j.sjbs.2021.09.044 

15. Shaath, N.A.: SPF Boosters Photostability of Ultraviolet Filters (2007) 

16. Li, L., Chong, L., Huang, T., Ma, Y., Li, Y., Ding, H.: Natural products and extracts from plants as natural UV filters for sunscreens: A review. Animal Models and Experimental Medicine(6), 183–195 (2023) 

17. Yarovaya, L., Khunkitti, W.: Effect of grape seed extract as a sunscreen booster. Songklanakarin Journal of Science & Technology(41(3)), 708–715 (2019) 

18. Serna-Loaiza, Miltner, Friedl: A Review on the Feedstocks for the Sustainable Production of Bioactive Compounds in Biorefineries. Sustainability 11(23), 6765 (2019). doi: 10.3390/su11236765 

19. Chauhan, P.S., Agrawal, R., Satlewal, A., Kumar, R., Gupta, R.P., Ramakumar, S.S.V.: Next generation applications of lignin derived commodity products, their life cycle, techno-economics and societal analysis. International journal of biological macromolecules 197, 179–200 (2022). doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2021.12.146 

20. Puglia, D., Santulli, C., Sarasini, F.: Micro and Nano Lignin in Aqueous Dispersions and Polymers. Elsevier 12(6) (2020). doi: 10.3390/polym12061364